Sunday, July 26, 2015

Leaving Nepal



It is with a heavy heart that I leave Nepal.  But it also feels that it is time for me to return home.  My purpose here is complete and I go forward with new knowledge and inspiration in the work we will be doing both in Nepal and globally.


Internet continues to be scarce and lately electricity too.  I probably won’t be able to post my last few posts until I return.  I have had several nights in the pitch black, hot and sweaty, no phone or internet – and it was perfect just listening to the rain.

My last full day here was spent in meetings and discussions.  All of it was productive, and most of it was fun as well.

MIDSON took me to another birth center that they are involved with.  It is at the teaching hospital (TUTH) and is sponsored by MIDSON and set up by them with the Royal College of Midwives during their twinning period.  I was impressed.  In the last 8 months they have had 100 births (we arrived soon after the 100th baby was born) and more and more women are hearing about it and opting to go there.  The transfer rate from their birth center to the labor and delivery ward was much, much higher than it should be, but given the minimal training these nurses have, it was still impressive and no doubt will improve as they gain experience and confidence.

The labor and delivery ward was just like the others I reported – approximately 7500 births/year and a >45% cesarean rate.  Women were alone and it was disheartening.  I will not post more photos of that as it wasn't any different than the others.

Birth center statistics




During my meeting with MIDSON, Shrzya, one of the nurses who works tirelessly for them in many projects including the setting up of their new clinic, henna’d my hands.  She is so talented and created a beautiful design that flows from one hand to the other when I hold them just so.  What a treat for my last night here.



I was able to meet again with Global Orphan Prevention and discuss their work.  Their relationship with MIDSON is one of the few reasons that …..With MIDSONs guidance they are able to go to the hardest hit areas and provide stable but temporary structures to replace the destroyed clinics and birth centers.

Through the funds Midwife Pilgrim was able to raise as well as advise on, I am grateful to report we were able to guarantee  one village health center will be constructed and in service until a permanent structure can be built. In addition, much needed supplies to ensure the health of new mothers and babies will be distributed.  Having gone to the market and witnessing these supplies being purchased as well as the generous donations of not only money but supplies and diapers that I brought, I know first hand that these will all be put to good use.  Hand to hand we help one another.


Midwife Pilgrim funds provided this particular project

Just an inkling of the amount of work it takes to get to the villages



In meeting with MIDSON we have developed projects that will place Pilgrim midwives in high volume areas to mentor and teach the maternity providers there. They will assist in all aspects of care as well as ensure daily topics are covered for review and practice.  In addition, in the more rural areas we hope to offer trainings to as many health centers/birth centers as we will are able.  With our staff and MIDSONs support we are hopeful that we can improve the quality of services to women in rural areas.  These women are among the most impoverished with little options for care due to geographical and economical realities.

My time with Dhindup was also valuable and one I will treasure forever.   It is so sweet to know that even after 14 years friendships can be strong and the bond unbreakable – as it is with Chomo and Karma.





My serendipitous meeting with Karen Hays will no doubt prove to be fruitful.  She has graciously given us permission to use the work she has already done doing a similar project with the American College of Nurse-Midwives (ACNM), and together we discussed much of future needs.
A reposting but there are few of us together because we took the photos








Adventures in Nepal





This journey has been everything and nothing that I imagined it to be.  The beauty of Nepal, the people, the pace...In between activities I was blessed to be able to take in some of the heritage and sights and to make my memories of this truly sacred place even more etched in my mind.



I took two days and traveled to Chitwan National Park.  I would not recommend anyone do this in the summer.  Heat index of 108F with 100% humidity.  I melted.  But, I also saw a place so different from the mountains that I often forgot I was in Nepal at all.


Nepali goats



I struggle with the treatment of the male elephants.  They were chained to "protect" them from escaping due to poachers.  I'm not sure this is any better.



We took an early morning canoe ride and jungle walk.  Even so it was unbearably hot.

Crocodile home
Crocodile



Yes, this is a tiger track




We had another trek through the jungle, this time on elephant back.  I did not feel good about it after reading some reports of abuse, but after talking with my guide and getting a first hand look at the elephants I felt more satisfied about how these particular wondrous creatures were treated.  I am certain it is not the same in all areas, but these elephants were healthy and without scars and actually seemed to enjoy themselves.  The issue over using them in such a way is difficult as without the income from tourists most of these animals would not survive since the park needs funds to protect them. In addition, they are used to patrol the park and must be trained as such since even 4WD cannot navigate some of the terrain during monsoon season.  They are work animals after all, but if I had seen one scar I would have refused the trip.






The highlight of my trip came on the last evening.  On a motorbike in the heavy rains - sometimes so heavy we couldn't see, through the back roads of Soarhuara to see a Nepal that I haven't yet explored and few tourists go to.  We were drenched to the bone and in places the water came up over my feet on the pedal of the bike.  We laughed and it was joyous and felt so freeing to be cool and alive!  

My driver took me to the bee yard where I was able to talk bees and taste the absolutely most delicious honey I have ever tasted.  I thought they might have added butter to it but I was told there is a tree, the butter tree, whose nectar tastes like butter and this region is famous for it's honey.  It is sublime. 






Playing in the rain - like children everywhere

















I was able to spend an afternoon at Durbar Square Patan.  The Durbar (Royal Palaces) are stunning in their splendor and I could only imagine what it must have been like in the glory days.







 


I also spent an afternoon in Durbar Square Kathmandu. This Durbar was heavily destroyed in the earthquakes and it was heartbreaking to see the rubble among the majesty.




Can you see the tree through all the carvings and decorations?



Dhindup by some of the rubble - I wish I could have seen it before the earthquakes




Dhindup and I also spent a few hours at the Dream Gardens - a lovely oasis on the outskirts of Thamel, Kathmandu - only a few minutes from my hotel.  The calm and quiet was serene after the hustle and bustle of the city - yet we were only feet away from the walls and gates.  I wish I had visited it earlier as I would have gone daily to meditate and center myself but am glad I got there at all.






Even here at this oasis we could not escape from the effects of the earthquakes